Staining your wood

-Basic types of wood
-How to prepare wood for staining
-StainingOil based,water based, Gels and Pastel stains.
-Dye's v.s. stains, fillers
-Supplies and Tips

Basic wood types: * Softwoods- Pine, Fir and Cedar. (etc.)
* Hardwoods- Oak, Beech, Ash, Elm, Birch and Walnut.(etc.)

* The differences between them and how that will effect your overall project: This is sometimes confusing because you have;

- Box wood and Aspen: A very soft Hardwood.

- Douglas Fir: A very hard Softwood.
Don't be concerned with the names "Hardwood or Softwood" we are looking at the characteristics of the wood itself.

If the wood has uneven wood grain, or blotchy patterns to it, chances are it is a softwood. When you stain it, it will stain unevenly. You may want this, to let the stain enhance the natural beauty of the wood. If you do not want this, place a pre-stain wood conditioner on your wood. It seeps into the wood fibers so that the wood will stain evenly. (With this product, I am not sure how dark of a stain, the wood can ultimately be, when finished.) Check with the manufacturer.
If the wood has a consistent flow or pattern to the grain, it's probably a hardwood. Use whatever stain you wish to enhance the wood grain.

I found out that hardwood such as Oak, may take a few more coatings of stain than softwood,(Pine,Poplar etc.) but the results are still very pleasing.
When I am looking for wood, I look for a piece that is unique, within itself.It does not matter if it is "soft" or "hard".

Preparing wood for staining:

With the selected piece(s) at hand, check to make sure the wood is free of dirt, grease etc.
Drawing on a mental image of what you want to create, you have to decide what type of sand paper you should use. The lower the # grit, the rougher the wood will be, the more stain will absorb into the wood and the darker your project piece will be. (And that's on the first application)
The opposite is true as well. The higher the # grit, the smoother the wood will be, the less will absorb into the wood and the results are a lighter stained project piece.

I usually (for flat surfaced pieces) use a lower grit sand paper (60 or 80) to remove any blemishes and scuff's. Next I will use a higher grit# (100 or 120). I try to keep in mind what depth of stain I am looking for in my finished project piece. If I want a finished (med.) depth of stain, I will stop with the 100 or 120 grit. If I want it lighter, I will go with a higher grit number.
You can go with a high grit number (200 or more) and add multiple coats of stain. This is fine. You should experiment on a scrap piece of wood to see what is right for you.
When sanding is complete, wipe down wood with damp cloth. Making sure wood is free from any debris.

Staining your wood:

Put your rubber gloves on. Make sure stain is stirred well. Using a sponge, brush, rag or clean cloth, apply stain to wood generously. Make sure you work in one continuous movement across your wood, going with the grain. Make sure the entire piece is brushed well and evenly.

You can wait 5 to 15 minutes for stain to absorb.The longer you wait, the darker it will be. If you are not sure how fast your wood will take the stain, use a clean cloth and wipe on, wipe off. (That quick). This will give you a good idea. It's easier to add more stain, than to have to take it off.
Let's say you wait 5 minutes and you are not satisfied with the results. The manufacturer recommends you wait 4 to 6 hours before reapplying. You can, or you can just add it right away and only let it sit for the remaining 10 minutes.(Remember total time of 15 Minutes) Do not let it sit longer than 15 minutes in low to medium humidity. It will start to gum-Up and it makes your project look like a 6 year old did it. (nothing against 6 yr.olds.)

If you are working in high humidity areas, you may want to reduce the time to 5 or 8 minutes max.
When you are satisfied with the stain color, place the piece(s) on something flat.(work bench, garage floor) and let dry for 6 to 8 hours.
Polyurethane:
You can use this for protection and beauty. It comes in Satin,Semi-gloss and High or Clear gloss.
Make sure that your wood is free of any debris. If you are using a spray can, stay 8-12 inches from piece being sprayed. With long even passes, apply the Poly.(Don't overspray, you will get runs.) Make about two passes and go on to the next piece. After a couple hours, reapply if you wish.
If your using the liquid. Wearing your gloves, brush it on with the grain. If you put to much on, you must continue to brush it out. You will have to babysit the wood, making sure that it does'nt hold bubbles or run. Once it looks like it is setting up, leave it alone for another 4 hours. Then reapply if you wish.
Please refer to the Manufacturers instructions and times. Mine are for reference purposes only.

Oil based stains:

Provides long lasting wood tone color. It penetrates deep into the pores to seal and protect the wood. (It brings out the natural beauty of the wood )

Water based stains:

Provides an even stain color. (It will not absorb unevenly like an oil based stain.)
Gels: Adds natural colors to a wide range of wood and non-wood products.(It is difficult to get out of grooves in wood.)

Pastels:

Oil based wood stain which provides a soft pastel color while highlighting the grain of the wood. (This is a fine product if you wish to accent your decor.)
**** The above, In"()" is author's opinion only, try what ever you wish. I only use Minwax products, because I feel they are the best.****

Dye's v.s. Stains:

Pigment stains will fill the grains and leave the wood surface with less colorant, whereas dyes will stain the grain and the areas between the grain approximately the same color.

Fillers:
Fillers can be nice to use when you are filling nail holes or brad holes. However, Using a wood filler usually won't stain the same color as the wood. I try to avoid fillers. I have heard that you can buy some powder form of the filler and add the color of stain that you will be using. Perhaps this will make the overall "filled holes" less noticeable.

One thing you might try is using some matching colored putty. Fill the holes, let dry. Putty won't get real hard, but let dry for a day. (All this is to be done after staining, and before Polyurethane.)Use some Poly. in a can (spray), and lightly go over you project. Let dry.Repeat spraying at least one more time. Let dry. If you apply to much Poly. the first time, it will break the putty down. If this happens,leave it alone. Do not try to wipe it off. You will smear the Poly. that you have applied. It's easier to chip it off when it's dry, and try again.
(Manufacturer recommends applying the Colored Putty after you Polyurethane your piece and it has dryied)

Supplies:
Your choice of wood. Stain, gloves, Polyurethane, brushes, sponges, clean white shop towels, and Putty. (If needed)

Do's & Do Not's and Tips:
All of the above are listed throughout the instructions. Please follow the Manufacturer's suggestions. However, if they don't work for you, try mine. If you have questions email me.
Thanks for reading.

Richard (MFDC)

Custom Flag Display Cases

Building a flag display case

Decide on which size of flag you will be building a flag display case for.
3'x5', 4'x6', 5'x9' (burial).
Measure the folded flag.
For this example we will use the 5x9 burial flag.
You will need the bottom (horizontal) measurement, along with the two diagonal measurements. Also get the thickness of the folded flag.
* bottom msmt: 24" * diagonal msmt: 16 3/4 "* thickness: 2 3/4 "
Decide on the type of wood you will be using.
For this example, we will use oak.
A 1x4 piece of oak actually measures 3 1/2 in width, which is fine. Buy an 8' length. (for be- ginners, in case there are mistakes)
Seeing that our flag is triangular in shape, we will cut the angles on a 45 degree. You can do this with a circular saw or a chop saw (mitre saw). Chop saws give a much better cut.
The bottom measurement of our flag is 24". So our inside measurement of our 45 degree cuts must be at least 24". I recommend cutting the length of board at 24 1/4"(little play room for glass and flag)
You should have approx. 6' of board left. As you know, wood has a grain pattern. These next steps will give your casea more professional appearance.
Measure off the longest portion of the angled 6' board (that's your long point of that particular angle, the other is the short point of that particular angle.)
Your angled measurements are 16 3/4".short point to short point. However, you will be cutting it 3" longer than that, (for mistakes). So let's just cut our side pieces 20" long. short to short.
Measure off the 6' board from long point 20", using a speed square or framing square, make a mark and cut your piece. (set this piece aside)
The longer remaining piece should have a short point. Your objective now is to turn that piece around 180 degrees, and cut the short point again in order to make it a long point.
Once you do this, your two 45 degree angles at the top of the display case will fit and the grain will match. It will look continuous. (match up all the angled pieces until you find that grain match)
When you place the bottom piece up to the angled side pieces to form the triangle you will notice that the side pieces are too long. Just pencil mark the bottom where it hangs over the bottom piece. That now is going to be cut at a 45 degree. Make sure you cut the 45 degree angle the correct way. Your end product should be a short to short angled piece.
When you are marking the piece to be cut, also mark the side of the board so you know for sure, which way the wood should be cut. Tack the frame together or use a strap to hold it in position.
Measure the size of glass you will need. We can measure the glass in two ways:
(1) -The exact size, minus 1/8th inch. (if you are going to place a wooden corner cover over the glass and attach it to the frame.)
OR
(2) - The glass can be measured 1/4" larger if it is going to be inserted into the frame.
7(1) Buy an 8' piece of wooden corner board. (for outside corners of walls) It is 3/4" long on each side of the 45 degree angle. Cut this to fit the outside (facing) of the triangular frame you just made.
You can insert the glass from the back side after the outside wooden corner's are nailed on. Then you can cut and place 3 pieces of 1/4 "x 1/4" molding on the inside to hold the glass in place.
7(2): Inset glass involves using a table saw.
Set your table saw guide to 1/4" from the inside of the saw blade to the guide itself. Set the depth of the blade to 1/8th inch.
-- If you know at the beginning that you will be insetting the glass, then cut the entire 8' length of board at one time. It's very difficult to cut small pieces like this and have it turn out correctly.
---If you have never used a table saw, ask someone with experience to perform this next step.---
Take the piece or pieces and with the table saw in operation, slowly guide the piece along the guide, making sure not too force the cut. Be gentle. It's wise to use a forked stick to push the wood through the cutting process. There are jigs that can be purchased for just this job. Call a do-it-yourself place. They can help you.
Once you have your cuts made, you are ready to nail it together.
Use small trim nails (1 1/4") long and nail frame together. With glass inserted into the cut grooves you just made.(Set nails with punch and color putty when done)
This is much easier if you have a brad gun. also place the frame so the glass is face down so it doesn't break if it falls out during this process.
Take the frame and place it on some 3/16th oak paneling and trace the outside of your frame. Cut this out for the backing of your display case. (Stain edges with the proper color. For oak, you can use Minwax-Colonial Maple or Early American.)
You can drill about 8 pilot holes through the 3/16" (paneling) into the wood frame. (On the Back Side) for screws.
Insert your burial flag. Insert your screws.
--that's a rap folks--your project is done.

Tools & Supplies
* Tape* Pencil* Circular Saw* Speed Square (or) Framing Square.* Sand Paper.* Stain,Putty and Polyurethane* Chop Saw (Mitre Saw)* Cut Glass* 2' x 2' piece of Oak or Maple paneling 3/16 or 1/4" thick.* Sponge or Brush.* 3/4" screws (8-10ea)* Small box of 1 1/4" trim nails. Or 1 1/2".* 8'- 1x4 board. (For your fdc frame.)* 8' Wooden (Outside corner board). 3/4"* Safety Glasses!
***WARNING***
* The 1st time you disrespect a Power tool, IT WILL disrespect YOU!
* If you have childrenaround, during the building and cutting process be sure toUNPLUG POWER to all your tools until you use them again. Then, unplug themagain!
TIPS:
Don't be in a rush. You can do this.
When ever you take a measurement add 1/16" to it. (20 1/16" instead of 20") That way, you cut ON the line and you will always have the true measurement that you need.

A guide to purchasing a quality flag display case

A Military or Memorial flag case is a very personal item purchased to honor and display the presentation flag of a loved one and should be made to last.
When searching for a flag display case, what should you look for? Appearance, style, and price are usually the key factors involved in making the purchase. Don’t forget the old adage, “You get what you pay for.” A flag case should be designed to protect the memorial flag it holds and be built to last for generations.
The Three Basic Types of Display Cases:
1. The “Made to Last for Awhile” Model. Thin, poorly constructed and made of compressed paper with a wood laminate applied and a Plexiglas front. Cases are constructed with glue and staples. Priced accordingly.
2. The “Might Last a While Longer” Model. Made from compressed wood particles with a wood-like finish (laminate) applied to it. This flag case usually has a Plexiglas front and uses inferior construction methods. Inexpensively priced.
3. The “Made to Last for Generations” Model. Solid wood flag display cases with glass fronts. (This includes both softwoods & hardwoods). These cases are both strong and beautiful. Prices vary depending on styles, types of wood used and construction methods.
There are two categories of this type of case.
a. Cases that are mass-produced. (Generally overseas) These cases are often made from inferior wood and construction techniques. b. Handcrafted, Made in the USA, by woodworkers who are serious about their craft and use superior products and construction methods.
A quality flag case should be crafted from solid wood and constructed with wood screws, brad nails and/or dovetailing. (A process where two pieces of wood are fingerjointed together.) This type of construction adds strength and durability to the flag case.
Glass fronts are recommended, as Plexiglas is prone to scratching. Cases fronted with glass look more professional and glass won’t discolor or scratch.
Cases made from compressed wood or paper will start to break down with time. These cases can warp and the laminate may begin to peel when subjected to high humidity or if they get wet. Repeated moving or handling can cause the cases to become loose and ultimately fall apart.
Buy from a reputable dealer. Choose someone who is willing to listen and answer your questions and who will stand by their product.
At Military Flag Display Cases we guarantee not just our products, but your satisfaction as well. All cases, shadowboxes and certificate holders are handcrafted from solid wood and have glass fronts. Our attention to detail and artistry show in the finished product. MFDC" flag cases will keep and protect your military or memorial flag for years to come.